RESEARCH BIBLIOGRAPHY FOR VELVET WEAVING
Research of velvet-weaving practice is typically transdisciplinary. It necessitates exploration of numerous written and artefactual resources, as well as practical understanding of weaving. Much of the historical scholarship has been focussed either regionally, culturally or in terms of particular disciplinary interests, such as art, textile manufacture, economy, trade and commerce, or general historical accounts. Technical and practical information is another important source, both historical and current. This bibliography lists numerous references organised regionally, then topically, according to the main focus of the content, or their particular usefulness to the subject of velvet-weaving.
The first group of references is grouped geographically, for references whose content is regionally specific or isolated. This will facilitate those researching the production of a particular country, or possibly seeking works in a particular language. The principal languages included in this bibliography are English, French, Italian, and Latin. Some other languages are also represented, usually in English or French translations. The regional references include many of the topics, providing regional or cultural context.
The references listed for “velvet, general” deal with velvet across a range of regions, or in generic terms, such as museum collections may do. The references whose content is primarily technical in terms of design, practice, technique, tools, or weaving statutes are in the ‘theory and technique” section—in this case, theory refers to the principles of weaving design and practice. The “terminology” section refers to works that identify and describe velvet-related terms that researchers might encounter or look for, often in foreign languages. The section on “textiles, general” lists works that include information about velvet among many other textiles, which do not fit well into other categories, such as survey works and works on Islamic textiles. The references in the “commerce, trade, and travel” section deal with works regarding those topics; they are grouped together, as many travellers’ accounts were connected to international trade or administration, or made observations about velvet as a trade commodity or local product. It should be noted that there is often overlap in the contents, but this topical structure is meant to point out the main content or value of the references. Some works contain little detail about velvet specifically, but as they might yield something useful pointing to other resources or ideas, I have included them, in case they may be available in some localities.
AMERICA
Atwater, Mary Meigs. The Shuttle-Craft Book of American Handweaving. Macmillan, 1937.
Dean Krute, Carol. “Cheney Brothers, the New York Connection.” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 1998, http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/183.
Swinker, Mary Elizabeth. An Artifact Study of Harmonist Patterned Silk Textiles, 1826-1852. Ohio State University, 1991, http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=osu1487757723997351.
BRITAIN
Ashley, Isaac. The Spitalfields Silk Weavers: London Luddites? 2012, https://www.brh.org.uk/site/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/THE-SPITALFIELDS-SILK-WEAVERS.pdf.
Braintree District Museum. 2018. https://www.braintreemuseum.co.uk/home/collections/warner-sons/.
Cohn, Lisa. “The Handwoven Velvet of Barbara Pickett.” Handwoven, no. Jan-Feb, 1987, pp. 203–07.
Goggeshall Museum. 2018. http://www.coggeshallmuseum.org.uk/textiles1.htm.
Harding, Vanessa A. “Some Documentary Sources for the Import and Distribution of Foreign Textiles in Later Medieval England.” Textile History: Journal of the Pasold Research Fund Ltd., vol. 18, no. 2, 1987, pp. 205–18.
Monnas, Lisa. “Silk Cloths Purchased for the Great Wardrobe of the Kings of England, 1325-1462.” Textile History: Journal of the Pasold Research Fund Ltd., vol. 20, no. 2, 1989, pp. 283–307.
Perry, Linda. British Textiles from 1850-1900. Canopy Books, 1993.
Rothstein, Natalie. Woven Textile Design in Britain to 1750. Canopy Books, 1994.
Rothstein, Natalie. Woven Textile Design in Britain: 1750-1850. Canopy Books, 1994.
Warner Textile Archive. 2018. https://www.warnertextilearchive.co.uk.
CENTRAL ASIA
Bühler, Alfred. “Origin and Extent of the Ikat Technique.” CIBA Review, vol. 44, CIBA, 1942, pp. 1604–11.
Harvey, Janet. Traditional Textiles of Central Asia. London: Thames and Hudson, 1997.
O’Neale, Lila M., et al. “Analysis of the Central Asian Silks Excavated by Sir Aurel Stein.” South Western Journal of Anthropology, vol. 1, no. 3, University of New Mexico Press, 1945, pp. 392–446. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3628755.
Rowland, Benjamin. The Art of Central Asia. Crown, 1974. https://archive.org/details/artofcentralasia00rowl.
CHINA
Brett, K. “A Ming Dragon Robe.” Royal Ontario Museum Bulletin of the Division of Art and Archaeology, vol. 27, 1958, pp. 9–14.
Bunt, Cyril. Chinese Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1961.
Burnham, Harold B. “A Ming Dragon Robe Velvet.” Royal Ontario Museum Bulletin of the Division of Art and Archaeology, vol. 27, 1958, pp. 14–16.
Burnham, Harold. Chinese Velvets: A Technical Study. Royal Ontario Museum Occasional Papers. Dept. of Art and Archaeology, no. 2, University of Toronto Press, 1959.
Chau, Ju-Kua, et al. Chau Ju-Kua: His Work on the Chinese & Arab Trade in the 12th & 13th Centuries, Entitled Chu-Fan-Chi. Paragon Book Reprint Corp., 1966.
d’Ardenne de Tizac, Jean Henri. The Stuffs of China: Weavings and Embroideries. E. Benn Ltd., 1924.
Gao, Hanyu. Soieries de Chine. Fernand Nathan, 1987.
Gao, Hanyu, et al. Chinese Textile Designs. Translated by Rosemary Scott and Susan Whitfield, Viking, 1992.
Grigg, Jocelyn. “Sasanian Influence in the Silks of T’ang China.” Hali Magazine, vol. II (Summer, no. 2, 1979, pp. 121–25.
Lee, Sherman E., and Wai-kam Ho. Chinese Art under the Mongols: The Yuan Dynasty, 1279-1368. Cleveland Museum of Art; distr. by Press of Case Western Reserve University, 1968.
Lubo-Lesnichenko, E. I. Ancient Chinese Silk Textiles & Embroideries, 5th c. BC to 3rd c. AD. in the State Hermitage Museum. State Hermitage, 1961.
Lubo-Lesnichenko, E. I. “La Technique Des Tissus de Soie Chinois de La Periode Han.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 11, 1960, pp. 47–64.
Lowry, John. “Some Tang Silks with an Unusual Weave.” Oriental Art, vol. 6, no. 4, 1960.
Myers, Myrna. “Silk Furnishings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties.” In Quest of Themes and Skills – Asian Textiles, edited by Krishna Riboud, Marg Publications, 1989, pp. 126–40.
Needham, John. Science and Civilization in China, vol. 5, part 10: Textile Technology and Weaving Looms. Cambridge University Press, (forthcoming June 2020).
Priest, Alan & Pauline Simmons. Chinese Textiles. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1931.
Priest, Alan. “The Exhibition of Chinese Court Robes and Accessories.” Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, vol. 26, no. 12, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1931, pp. 283–88.
Riboud, Krishna. “Techniques and Problems Encountered in Certain Han and T’ang Specimens.” Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles 1974: Archaeological Textiles, edited by Patricia L Fiske, The Textile Museum, 1974, pp. 153–69.
Riboud, Krishna. “Han Dynasty Specimens from Noin-Ula and Mawangdui in Looped-Warp Weave.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 57–58, CIETA, 1983, pp. 16–38.
Riboud, Krishna. “A Closer View of Early Chinese Silks.” Studies in Textile History, edited by Veronika Gervers, Royal Ontario Museum, 1977, pp. 252–80.
Sachs, Eleanor B. “Notes on the Weaves of a Group of Silk Fabrics from the Burial Mounds of Noin-Ula Now in the Pennsylvania Museum of Art, Philadelphia.” Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, vol. 20, 1936, pp. 74–78. chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb36_br2.pdf.
Shih, Hsio-Yen. “Textile Finds in the People’s Republic of China.” Studies in Textile History in Memory of Harold B. Burnham, edited by Veronika Gervers, Royal Ontario Museum, 1977, pp. 305–31.
Simmons, Pauline. “Some Recent Developments in Chinese Textile Studies.” Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities Bulletin, vol. 28, Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities, 1956, pp. 19–44.
Simmons, Pauline. Chinese Patterned Silks. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1948.
Thurman, Christa C. Mayer et al. Clothed to Rule the Universe: Ming and Qing Dynasty Textiles at the Art Institute of Chicago. Vol. 26, no. 2, 2000, pp. 12–51.
Vollmer, John E. In the Presence of the Dragon Throne. Royal Ontario Museum, 1977.
Vollmer, John E. “China and the Complexities of Weaving Technology.” Ars Textrina, vol. 5, 1986.
Vollmer, John, et al. Silk Roads, China Ships. Royal Ontario Museum, 1983.
Voskresensky, A. A., et al. “Technical Study of Textiles from the Burial Mounds of Noin-Ula.” Izvestia (Bulletin) of the State Academy for the History of Material Culture, vol. XI, no. Parts 7-9, 1932, pp. 2–72.
Yule, Sir Henry. “Cathay and the Way Thither: Being a Collection of Medieval Notices of China.” Works Issued by the Hakluyt Society, 2d Series, New revise, no. 2d series nos. 38, 33, 37, 41, Kraus Reprint, 1967.
ROMAN AND BYZANTINE EGYPT
Bourgon-Amir, Yvonne. Les Tapisseries Coptes Du Musée Historique Des Tissus, Lyon. Vol. 2, Publications de la Recherche, Université de Montpellier, 1993.
Bunt, Cyril. Byzantine Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1957.
Carroll, Diane Lee. Looms and Textiles of the Copts: First Millenium Egyptian Textiles in the Carl Austin Rietz Collection of the California Academy of Sciences. California Academy of Sciences; dist. by University of Washington Press, 1988.
Cortopassi, Roberta. “Vêtements «romains» au Louvre.” Purpureae Vestes II. Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sobre la producción de bienes de consume en la Antigüedad. Universidad de València, 2008, pp. 149–58.
Marzouk, Muhammad A., et al. History of Textile Industry in Alexandria: 331 BC – 1517 AD. Alexandria University Press, 1955.
Stauffer, Annemarie. Textiles of Late Antiquity. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1995.
Trilling, James. The Roman Heritage. Textiles from Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean, 300 to 600 AD. The Textile Museum, 1982.
FRANCE
Algoud, Henri. Gaspard Grégoire et ses velours d’art. Soc. Française d’Imprimerie et de Librairie, 1908.
Algoud, Henri. Les arts de la soie: le velours. C. Massin, 1913.
Arizzoli-Clémentel, Pierre. The Textile Museum, Lyons. Musées et Monuments de France, 1990.
Brunet, Isabelle. Manufactures J.-B. Martin, 1873-1989. Départment du Rhône, 1996.
Bunt, Cyril. The Silks of Lyon. F. Lewis, 1960.
Coquillat, J., and C. Razy. “La Technique des Velours Grégoire.” La Soierie de Lyon, 1924, pp. 202-204,466-489.
Coudouin, André. “L’âge d’or de la soierie à Tours (1470-1550).” Annales de Bretagne et Des Pays de l’Ouest, vol. 88, no. 1, 1981, pp. 43–65, doi:https://doi.org/10.3406/abpo.1981.3035.
Davidson, Ruth. “A Glossary of French Silks.” The Art of the Weaver, edited by Anita Schorsch, Universe Books, 1978, pp. 42–47.
Dantzer, James & D. de Prat. Les Tissus I: Tissus Classiques. Librairie Polytechnique Ch. Béranger, 1934.
Dantzer, James & D. de Prat. Les Tissus II: Tissus Spéciaux. Librairie Polytechnique Ch. Béranger, 1949.
Demoule, Philippe. The Great Story of Silk Trade of Lyons. 1979. https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/df1_trad.pdf.
Demoule, Philippe. L’Atelier Du Canut Lyonnais Au XIXe Siècle. 2002. https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/df1_work.pdf.
Diderot, and D”Alembert. “Encyclopedia Diderot and d’Alembert, Weaving Plates.” Encyclopedia Diderot and d’Alembert.
Hafter, Daryl M. “New Looms and Fabric Novelties in Philippe de Lasalle’s 18th Century Silks.” Looms and Their Products: Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles 1977, The Textile Museum, 1977, pp. 256–68.
Hedde, Isidore. “Paléographie Des Tissus: Bible de Théodulfe.” Le Moniteur Des Soies, Imprimerie L. Bergeron, 1879.
Hernoud, André, and Henri Bougnol. Le Velours Dans l’Ouest Lyonnais de 1830 à 1930. L’Araire, 1995.
Le Manach. 2018, http://www.lemanach.fr.
Pariset, E. Les Industries de La Soie. Pitrat Ainé, 1890.
Pommier, Henriette, et al. Soieries Lyonnaise. Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, 1980.
Schoeser, Mary, and Kathleen Dejardin. French Textiles from 1760 to the Present. Laurence King Ltd., 1991.
Tassinari et Chatel. 2018, http://www.tassinari.fr.
Tuchscherer, Jean-Michel. Étoffes Merveilleuses Du Musée Historique Des Tissus, Lyon: I. Soieries Françaises. Vol. 1, Albert Guillot, 1976.
Tuchscherer, Jean-Michel, and Gabriel Vial. Le Musée Historique Des Tissus de Lyon. Albert Guillot, 1977.
Vial, Gabriel. “Une Chasuble Medievale Avec Emblemes Heraldiques Français.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 63–64, CIETA, 1986, pp. 101–12.
GERMANY
Canning, Kathleen. Languages of Labor and Gender: Female Factory Work in Germany, 1850-1914. Cornell University Press, 1996.
INDIA
Ahmad, Salahuddin. “Rise and Decline of the Economy of Bengal.” Asian Affairs, Vol. 27, no. 3, 2005, pp. 5-26.
Ali, Abdullah Yusuf. Monograph on the Silk Fabrics Produced in the Northwestern Provinces and Oudh. Allahabad: North-west Provinces and Oudh Government Press. 1900. Reprinted 1974.
Babur [Padshah Ghazi], Zahiru’d-din Muhammad, and Annette Susannah Beveridge. The Bābur-Nāma in English (Memoirs of Babur), Vol. 1. Luzac & Co, 1922, https://archive.org/details/baburnamainengli01babuuoft/page/n8.
Begam, Gul-badan, and Annette Susannah Beveridge. The History of Humāyūn (Humāyūn-Nāma). Royal Asiatic Society, 1902.
Bérinstain, Valérie. “Mughal Style.” Hali, no. 54, 1990, pp. 117–24.
Chandra, Moti. “Costumes and Textiles in the Sultanate Period.” Journal of Indian Textile History, vol. VI, 1961, pp. 5–61.
Chandra, Moti. “Indian Costumes and Textiles from the 8th to the 12th Century.” Journal of Indian Textile History, vol. V, 1960, pp. 28–33.
Chaudhary, Pooja. A Study of Mughal Imperial Costumes and Designs During 16th and 17th Century. Aligarh Muslim University, Aligarh, 2015. https://ia800802.us.archive.org/14/items/AStudyOfMughalEmperialCostumesAndDesignsDuring16thAnd17thCentury/A study of Mughal emperial costumes and designs during 16th and 17th century.pdf.
Dhamija, Jasleen. “Indian Velvets.” Handwoven Fabrics of India, Grantha Corporation in association with Mapin Publishing PVT Ltd, 1989, pp. 52–59.
Elliot, H. M., and John Dowson. “The History of India as Told by Its Own Historians: The Muhammadan Period.” Statewide Agricultural Land Use Baseline 2015, vol. 2, Trübner and Co., 1869, doi:10.1017/CBO9781107415324.004.
Jahangir, Emperor of India. The Jahangirnama. Memoirs of Jahangir, Emperor of India. Edited & translated by Wheeler M. Thackston, Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institution, Oxford University Press, 1999.
Galloway, Francesca, & Michael Spink. Islamic Art from India. Spink and Son, 1980.
Guy, John. Arts of India. Victoria and Albert Museum (?), 1990.
Ibn Mubārak, Abū al-Faz’l ’Allami, et al. Aín i Akbari, Vol. 1. The Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1873, https://books.google.ca/books?id=PqEIAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=snippet&q=qatifah&f=false.
Ibn Mubārak, Abū al-Faz’l ’Allami. ‘Ain i Akbari, Vol. 2. Translated by H. S. Jarrett, Baptist Mission Press, 1891.
Jain, Rahul. Mughal Velvets in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D. S. Metha for the Calico Museum, Sarabhai Foundation, 2011.
Jain, Rahul. “The Indian Drawloom and Its Products.” The Textile Museum Journal, vol. 32 & 33, 1993, pp. 50–81.
Jain, Rahul. Textiles and Garments at the Jaipur Court. Niyogi Books, 2016.
Khandalavala, Karl, and Saryu Doshi. An Age of Splendour – Islamic Art in India. Marg Publications, 1983.
Monshi, Eskandar Beg, and Roger M. Savory. History of Shah ’Abbas the Great, Vol. 2. Westview Press, 1930.
Murphy, V. The Indian Heritage: Court Life and Arts under Mughal Rule. V & A Museum, 1982.
Marie-Hélène, Guelton & Amina Okada. Le Motif Floral Dans Les Tissus Moghols / The Flower Motif in Mughal Textiles: India XVII-XVIII Centuries. AEDTA, 1995.
Raychaudhuri, Tapan, & Irfan Habib. The Cambridge Economic History of India. Cambridge University Press.
Sangar, Pramod Kumar. Growth of the English Trade Under the Great Mughals, 1556-1707. Panjab University, Changigarh, 1985.
Smart, Ellen S. “A Preliminary Report on a Group of Important Mughal Textiles.” Textile Museum Journal, vol. 25, 1986, pp. 5–22.
Smart, Ellen S., and Dale C. Gluckman. “Cloth of Luxury: Velvet in Mughal India.” In Quest of Themes and Skills: Asian Textiles, edited by Krishna Riboud, Marg Public, 1989, pp. 36–47.
Spies, Otto. “An Arab Account of India in the 14th Century: Being a Translation of the Chapters on India from Al-Qalqashandi’s UbY Ul-Ash.” Bonner Orientalistische Studien, vol. 14, Kohlhammer, 1936.
Stein, Burton. “Coromandel Trade in Medieval India.” Merchants and Scholars: Essays in the History of Exploration and Trade, edited by John Parker, University of Minnesota Press, 1965, pp. 49–62.
Strong, John H. Foundations of Fabric Structure. National Trade Press, 1953.
Victoria and Albert Museum. Indian Art. Victoria and Albert Museum, 1969.
Victoria & Albert Museum. The Indian Heritage: Court Life and Arts under Mughal Rule. 1982.
Weiner, Yamuna. “The Indian Origins of Ikat.” Ars Textrina, vol. 17, 1992, pp. 57–86.
Zebrowski, Mark. “The Hindu and Muslim Elements of Mughal Art with Reference to Textiles.” In Quest of Themes and Skills – Asian Textiles, edited by Krishna Riboud, Marg Publications, 1989, pp. 26–35.
ITALY
Bagnoli, Armida de’ Medici. Sete e Arazzi: Catalogo Della Mostra Dell’Arte Della Seta a Reggio Emilia … Secoli XVI-XVIII. Electra Editrice, 1966.
Brown, P. F. “Behind the Walls: The Material Culture of Venetian Elites.” Venice Reconsidered, edited by J Martin and D Romano, Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000, pp. 295–338.
Bunt, Cyril. Venetian Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1959.
Bunt, Cyril. Sicillian and Lucchese Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1961.
Bunt, Cyril. Florentine Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1962.
Byrne, Eugene Hugh. “Genoese Shipping in the 12th & 13th Centuries.” Monographs of the Mediaeval Academy of America, no. 1, Kraus Reprint Co., 1970.
Centro Internazionale dell’Arte et del Costume. Guide International Des Musées et Des Collections Publiques de Costumes et de Tissus. Centro Internazionale dell’Arte et del Costume, 1970.
Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume. Tessuti, Costumi e Moda: Le Raccolte Storiche Di Palazzo Mocenigo, edited by Doretta Davanzo Poli, Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume, 1985.
Chiappini di Sorio, Ileana. “Velvets from Venice.” Apollo Magazine, no. 102, 1975, pp. 203–07.
Chojnacki, S. “Identity and Ideology in Renaissance Venice: The Third Serrata.” Venice Reconsidered, edited by J Martin and D Romano, Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000, pp. 263–94.
Curiel, Roberta. The Venetian Ghetto. Rizzoli, 1990.
de Francesco, Grete. “Venetian Silks.” CIBA Review, vol. 29, 1940, pp. 1018–53.
de Roover, Florence Edler. “Lucchese Silks.” CIBA Review, vol. 80, 1950, pp. 2902–30.
de Roover, Florence Edler. “The Silk Trade of Lucca.” Needle & Bobbin Club Bulletin, vol. 38, no. 1–2, 1954, pp. 28–48.
Deruisseau, G. L. “Velvet & Silk in the Italian Renaissance.” CIBA Review, vol. 17, 1940, pp. 595–601.
Duffy, Bella. “The Tuscan Republics (Florence, Siena, Pisa, and Lucca), with Genoa.” Story of the Nations Series, Unwin, 1892, http://link.library.utoronto.ca/eir/EIRdetail.cfm?Resources__ID=488034&T=F.
Ettinghausen, Richard, and Ehsan Yar-Shater. “Highlights of Persian Art.” Persian Art, no. 1, 1979.
Fanelli, Rosalia Bonito, and Paulo Peri. Tessuti Italiani Del Rinascimento: Collezioni Franchetti Carrand, Museo Nazionale Del Bargello. Exhibition, Officine Grafiche, 1981.
Fanelli, Rosita Bonito. Five Centuries of Italian Textiles, 1300 – 1800: A Selection from the Museo Del Tessuto Prato. Museo del Tessuto, 1981.
King, David & Monique. “Silk Weaves of Lucca in 1376.” Opera Textilia Variorum Temporum, edited by Inger Estham and Margareta Nockert, Statens Historiska Museum, 1988, p. 188.
Mancini, A., et al. Lo Statuto Della Corte Dei Mercanti in Lucca Del MCCCLXXVI. L. Olschki, 1927, https://books.google.ca/books?id=A8-nMQEACAAJ.
Meek, Christine. Lucca 1369-1400: Politics and Society in and Early Renaissance City-State. Oxford University Press, 1978.
Molà, Luca. The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice. Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000.
Monnas, Lisa. Renaissance Velvets. V & A Publishing, 2012.
Monnas, Lisa. “Some Venetian Silk-Weaving Statutes from the 13th to the 16th Century.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, no. 69, CIETA, 1991, pp. 27–55.
Monnas, Lisa. “Developments in Figured Velvet Weaving in Italy during the 14th Century.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, no. 63–64, CIETA, 1986, pp. 63–100.
Monnas, Lisa. “The Artists and the Weavers: The Design of Woven Silks in Italy, 1350-1550.” Apollo Magazine, vol. 125, 1987, pp. 416–24.
Monnas, Lisa, and Gabriel Vial. “A Renaissance Silk Velvet of a Phoenix Design.” Textile History: Journal of the Pasold Research Fund Ltd., vol. 20, no. 2, Maney Publishing, 1989, pp. 313–20.
Museo Nazionale del Bargello. Velluti Operati Del XV Secolo: Col Motivo ‘de’ Camini’. Studio per Edizioni Scelte, 1987.
Museo Nazionale del Bargello. Velluti Operati Del XV Secolo: Col Motivo Delle ‘Gricce.’ Studio per Edizioni Scelte, 1985.
Piccamiglio, Giovanni, and Jacques Heers. “Le Livre de Comptes de Giovanni Piccamiglio, Homme d’affaires Genois, 1456-1459.” Affaires et Gens d’affaires, no. 13, S.E.V.P.E.N., 1959.
Pirovano, Carlo. Tessuti Serici Italiani, 1450-1530. Electra Editrice, 1983.
Poli, Doretta Davanzo. Tessuti Antichi: La Collezione Cini Dei Musei Civici Veneziani. Museo Correr, 1991.
Poli, Doretta Davanzo. Tessuti, Costumi e Moda. Le Raccolte Storiche Di Palazzo Mocenigo. Edited by Venezia Palazzo Mocenigo, Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costumi, 1985.
Reininger, Walter. “The Textile Trades in Medieval Florence.” CIBA Review, vol. 27, 1939, pp. 957–73.
Roth, Cecil. Venice. Jewish Publication Society of America, 1930.
Roth, Cecil. The History of the Jews of Italy. Gregg International Publishers, 1969.
Santangelo, Antonino. A Treasury of Great Italian Textiles. First, H. N. Abrams, 1964.
Shulvass, Moses A. The Jews in the World of the Renaissance. Brill, 1973.
Tessitura Cordani. 2018. http://tessiturecordani.it/.
Tessitura Gaggiola. 2018. http://tessituragaggioli.it/en.
Thurman, Christa C. Mayer. Renaissance Velvets and Silks. Art Institute of Chicago, 2002.
Tietzel, Brigitte, and Textilmuseum Krefeld. Italienische Seidengewebe. Deutschen Textilmuseums, 1984.
Tognetti, Sergio. “The Development of the Florentine Silk Industry: A Positive Response to the Crisis of the Fourteenth Century.” Journal of Medieval History, vol. 31, no. 1, 2005, pp. 55–69, doi:10.1016/j.jmedhist.2004.12.002.
Università Internazionale dell’ Arte. Origine e Sviluppo Dei Velluti a Venezia: Il Velluto Allucciolato d’oro. Bertoncello Artigrafiche – Cittadella, 1986.
Waley, Daniel Philip. The Italian City-Republics. Longman, 1988.
JAPAN
Nishijin Textile Industry Association. Nishijin Textile Center. 2018. http://nishijin.or.jp/eng/nishijin_textile_center.
Kobayashi, Keiko. Japanese Velvet at Somacho Co. Ltd. 2009. Amateur video in collection of Wendy Landry.
Kobayashi, Keiko. From Thread to Fabric. Japan Publications Inc., 2013.
Simmons, Pauline. “An Interim Report on Ancient Textile Collections in Japan.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA 15, vol. 15, 1962.
Smith, A. D. Howell. Guide to the Japanese Textiles, Part I: Textile Fabrics. Victoria & Albert Museum, Dept. Textiles, 1919.
Uemura, Rokuro. “The Art of Weaving & Dyeing in Japan.” Old Art Treasures from Japan’s Needles and Looms, Korinsha Co. Ltd., 1949, pp. 1-13.
PERSIA/IRAN AND SYRIA
Ackerman, Phyllis. “Persian Textiles.” CIBA Review, vol. 98, 1953, pp. 3525–26.
Ackerman, Phyllis. “Textiles of the Islamic Periods: History.” A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric Times to the Present, edited by Arthur Upham Pope and Phyllis Ackerman, vol. 5, Soroush Press, 1977, pp. 1995–2162.
Ackerman, Phyllis, and Vladimir Klein. “Persian Weaving Techniques: History.” A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric Times to the Present, edited by Arthur Upham Pope and Phyllis Akerman, 3rd ed., vol. 5, Soroush Press, 1977, pp. 2175–226.
Avanian, Rahim &. George. Royal Persian and Kashmir Brocades. Senshoku to Seikatsusha Publishing Co., 1975.
Bier, Carol. The Persian Velvets at Rosenburg. De Danske Kongers Kronoligiske Samling, Rosenburg, 1995.
Bier, Carol. Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart. Textile Arts of Safavid and Qajar Iran, 16th to 19th Centuries. Edited by Carol Bier, Textile Museum, 1987.
Bunt, Cyril. Persian Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1963.
Chardin. Voyages Du Chevalier Chardin En Perse, et Autres Lieux de l’Orient, Tome Sixième. Edited by L. Langlès, Le Normant, Imprimeur-Libraire, 1711.
Chardin. Voyages Du Chevalier Chardin En Perse, et Autres Lieux de l’Orient, Tome Second. Jean Louis de Lorme, 1711.
Chardin. Voyages Du Chevalier Chardin En Perse, et Autres Lieux de l’Orient, Tome Septième. Jean Louis de Lorme, 1711.
Dimand, M. S. “A Persian Velvet Carpet.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, vol. 22, no. 10, 1927, pp. 247–51. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3255872.
Dimand, Maurice S. “The Seventeenth Century Isfahan School of Rug Weaving.” Islamic Art in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Edited by Richard Ettinghausen, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1972, pp. 255–66.
Dimand, Maurice S. “Safavid Textiles and Rugs.” Highlights of Persian Art, edited by Richard Ettinghausen and Ehsan Yar-Shater, Westview Press, 1979, pp. 273–311.
Fraser, James Baillie (1783-1856). Historical and Descriptive Account of Persia, from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time.
Fryer, John (d 1733). New Account of East India & Persia, Being 9 Years Travels: 1672 – 1681. Kraus Reprint, 1967.
Goetz, Hermann. “The History of Persian Costume.” A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric Times to the Present, edited by Arthur Upham Pope, vol. 5, Soroush Press, 1977.
Harper, Prudence Oliver. The Royal Hunter: Art of the Sasanian Empire. The Asia Society/ John Weatherhill, Inc., 1978.
Kalter, Johannes, Margareta Pavaloi & Maria Zerrnickel. The Arts and Crafts of Syria. Thames & Hudson, 1992.
Kamimura, Rokura. Textiles of Iran. Unsudo, 1962.
Kendrick, Alfred. F. “Persian Stuffs with Figured Subjects.” Burlington Magazine, vol. 37, 1920, pp. 237–44.
Klein, Vladimir, and Phyllis Ackerman. “Textiles of the Islamic Periods: Russian Document on Persian Textiles.” A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric Times to the Present, edited by Arthur Upham Pope, vol. 5, Soroush Press, 1977, pp. 2163–74.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Woven Treasures of Persian Art: Persian Textiles from the 6th to the 19th Century. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1959.
Neumann, Reingard, & Gerhard Murza. Persische Seiden: Die Gewebekunst der Safawiden und ihrer Nachfolger. VEB E. A. Seemann, Buch- und Kunstverlag, 1988.
Pope, Arthur Upham & Phyllis Ackerman. A Survey of Persian Art: From Prehistoric Times to the Present. Edited by Arthur Upham Pope, vol. 3 (Tents), Soroush Press.
Pope, Arthur Upham. Persian Architecture. 1965.
Pope, Arthur Upham. Masterpieces of Persian Art. The Dryden Press, 1945.
Pope, Arthur Upham. Introduction to Persian Art since the 7th Century AD. 1972.
Reath, Nancy, and Eleanor Sachs. Persian Textiles and Their Techniques from the 6th to the 18th Centuries; Including a System for General Textile Classification. Yale University Press for Pennsylvania Museum of Art, 1937.
Salam-Liebich, Hayat. “Masterpieces of Persian Textiles from the Montreal Museum of Fine Art Collection.” Iranian Studies (The Carpets and Textiles of Iran: New Perspectives in Research), vol. 25, no. 1–2, 1992, pp. 19–25, doi:10.1080/00210869208701765.
Shepherd, Dorothy. “A Persian Velvet of the Shah Tahmasp Period.” Cleveland Museum of Art Bulletin, vol. 36, no. 4, 1949, pp. 46–53.
Shepherd, Dorothy. “A Persian Velvet of the Safavid Period.” Cleveland Museum of Art Bulletin, vol. 37, Cleveland Museum of Art, 1950, pp. 118–19.
Sonday, Milton. “Pattern and Weaves: Safavid Lampas & Velvet.” Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart: Textile Arts of Safavid and Qajar Iran, 16th to 19th Century, edited by Carol Bier, The Textile Museum, 1987.
“Velvet Weaving: A Forfeited Craft.” Iran Review. 2009, pp. 11–12. http://www.iranreview.org/content/Documents/Velvet_Weaving_A_Forfeited_Craft.htm.
Victoria and Albert Museum. Brief Guide to the Persian Woven Fabrics. Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Textiles, 1922.
Wulff, Hans E. The Traditional Crafts of Persia; Their Development, Technology, and Influence on Eastern and Western Civilizations. MIT. Press, 1966.
SPAIN
Bunt, Cyril. Spanish Silks. F. Lewis, 1965.
Bunt, Cyril. Hispano-Mooresque Fabrics. F. Lewis, 1960.
Burnham, Harold. “A Spanish Velvet Weave.” Needle & Bobbin Club Bulletin, vol. 43, no. 1–2, 1959, pp. 22–36.
Calderón, Isabel Colón. “Tejidos e Indumentarias En La Traducción Castellana Del Decamerón.” EHumanista, vol. 28, 2014, pp. 395–408.
Constable, Olivia Remie. Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain: The Commercial Realignment of the Iberian Peninsula, 900-1500. Cambridge University Press, 1994.
Dodds, Jerrilynn Denise, et al. Al-Andalus: The Art of Islamic Spain. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1992, https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=lLAryx8bC8UC&pgis=1.
Martin i Ros, Rosa M., and Gabriel Vial. “Le Velours de Ramon Berenguer II.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 70, 1992, pp. 131–37.
May, Florence Lewis. “Silk Textiles of Spain: Eighth to Fifteenth Century.” Hispanic Notes and Monographs: Essays, Studies, and Brief Biographies. Peninsular Series, Hispanic Society of America, 1957.
Partearroyd, Cristina. “Almoravid and Almohad Textiles.” Al-Andalus: The Art of Islamic Spain, edited by Jerrilynn Denise Dodds, Metropolitan Museum of Art / Harry Abrams Inc., 1992, p. contents; xxvi-xxx; 105-113; 336.
Shepherd, Dorothy. “The Hispanic-Islamic Textiles in the Cooper-Union Collection.” Cooper-Union Chronicle, vol. 1, no. 10, Museum for the Arts of Decoration, 1943, pp. 357–401.
Vives, Jaime Vicens, and Frances M. López-Morillas. An Economic History of Spain. Princeton University Press, 1969.
Volbach, W. Fritz. “Étoffes Espagnoles Du Moyen-Âge et Leurs Rapport Avec Palerme et Byzance.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 50, 1969, pp. 23–24.
Weibel, Adele Coulin. “Textiles from Old Spain.” Detroit Institute of Arts Bulletin, vol. 13, no. 6, Detroit Institute of Arts, 1932, pp. 73–76.
Williams, Leonard. The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain. Vol. III, T. N. Foulis, 1907.
Wittlin, A. “Development of Silk Weaving in Spain.” CIBA Review, vol. 20, 1942, pp. 707–21.
TURKEY
Aga-Oglu, Mehmet. Safavid Rugs and Textiles: the Collection of the Shrine of Imām ‘Alī at al-Najaf. Columbia University, 1941.
Aslanapa, Oktay. Turkish Art and Architecture. Faber, 1971. Atasoy, Nurhan, et al. IPEK: The Crescent and the Rose. Imperial Ottoman Silks and Velvets. Edited by Julian Raby and Alison Effeny, Azimuth Editions Ltd, 2001.
Atil, Esin. Turkish Art. Abrams; Smithsonian Museum, 1981.
Atil, Esin. The Age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. Harry Abrams, Inc.; National Gallery of Art, 1987.
Baker, Patricia, et al. “Momento Mori: Ottoman Children’s Kaftans in the Victoria & Albert Museum.” Hali, no. 51, pp. 131-140,152.
de Jonghe, Daniël. The Ottoman Silk Textiles of the Royal Museums of Art and History of Brussells. 2010.
Denny, Walter. “Ottoman Turkish Textiles.” The Textile Museum Journal, vol. 3, no. 55–66, The Textile Museum, 1972.
Denny, Walter B. “Textiles.” Tulips, Arabesques and Turbans: Decorative Arts from the Ottoman Empire, edited by Yanni Petsopoulos, Abbeville Press, 1982, pp. 115–41; 220–21.
Gürsu, Nevber. The Art of Turkish Weaving: Designs through the Ages. Redhouse Press, 1988.
İpek, Selin. “Ottoman Fabrics During the 18th and 19th Centuries.” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 2012, http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/697.
Levey, Michael. World of Ottoman Art. 1975.
Mackie, Louise W. “Rugs and Textiles.” Turkish Art, edited by Esin Atil, Abrams; Smithsonian Museum, 1980, pp. 299–373.
Mackie, Louise W. The Splendor of Turkish Weaving: An Exhibition of Silks and Carpets of the 13th-18th Centuries. The Textile Museum, 1973.
Okumura, Sumiyo. “Velvet and Patronage: The Origin and Historical Background of Ottoman and Italian Velvets.” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 2016, p. n.p., https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/1008.
Oz, Tahsin. Turkish Textiles and Velvets, XIV – XVI Centuries. Turkish Press, 1950.
Phillips, Amanda. “A Material Culture: Ottoman Velvets and Their Owners, 1600-1750.” Muqarnas, vol. 31, 2014, pp. 151–72.
Phillips, Amanda. “The Historiography of Ottoman Velvets, 2011-1572: Scholars , Craftsmen , Consumers.” Journal of Art Historiography, no. 6, 2011, pp. 1–26.
Rice, David Talbot. Constantinople from Byzantium to Istambul. 1965.
Rogers, J. M., et al. Topkapi Textiles: The Topkapi Saray Museum: Costumes, Embroideries and Other Textiles. Little, Brown & Co., 1986.
Smithsonian. “Art Treasures of Turkey.” Smithsonian Publication, no. 4663, Smithsonian Institution, 1966.
Victoria and Albert Museum. Turkish Woven Fabrics. Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Textiles, 1923.
Victoria & Albert Museum. A Brief Guide to Turkish Woven Fabrics. 1950.
Wace, A. J. B. “The Dating of Turkish Velvets.” Burlington Magazine, vol. 64, 1934, pp. 164–71.
Wearden, Jennifer M. “Turkish Velvet Cushion Covers.” Leaflet (Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Textiles and Dress), Victoria and Albert Museum, 1990.
Weibel, Adèle Coulin. “Turkish Velvet of the Sixteenth Century.” Detroit Institute of Arts Bulletin, vol. 26, no. 3, 1947, pp. 61-62. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41500717.
VELVET, GENERAL
Bearman, Frederick A., et al. Fine and Historic Bookbindings from the Folger Shakespeare Library. Folger Shakespeare Library, 1992.
Bezon, Jean. Dictionnaire général des tissus anciens et modernes, tome II. Imprimerie et Lithographie de Th. Lépagnez, 1857, https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.hnqtk9&view=1up&seq=10.
Bezon, Jean. Dictionnaire général des tissus anciens et modernes, tome III. Imprimerie et Lithographie de Th. Lépagnez, 1857, https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.hnqtka&view=1up&seq=7.
Bezon, Jean. Dictionnaire général des tissus anciens et modernes, tome IV. Imprimerie et Lithographie de Th. Lépagnez, 1857, https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.hnqtkb&view=1up&seq=11.
de’ Marinis, Fabrizio, et al. Velvet: History, Techniques, Fashions [Il Velluto]. Edited by Fabrizio de’ Marinis, English, Idea Books, 1994.
Demoule, Philippe. Le Dictionnaire de la Soierie, II: Velours, Taffeta, Damas, Brocard, Broché, Gaze, Moiré selon Diderot et d’Alembert. https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/df1_slk2.pdf.
Demoule, Philippe. Velours ciselé de soie. Fils du Temps, revue de Conservatoire des Vieux Métiers du Textile (CVMT). https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/df1_velv.pdf.
Fayard, Pierre. “Velours Chinés à La Branche.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, no. 57–58, CIETA, 1983, pp. 68–72; 76.
Felsher, Lynn. Extravagant Lengths: Velvet, Plush and Velveteen, 19-20th Centuries, from the Collections of the Fashion Institute of Technology. Fashion Institute of Technology.
Gough, Suzi. “Adventures in Velvet Weaving.” Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, no. 221, 2007, pp. 8–12.
Holt, Stefania P. Velvets East and West: From the 14th Century to the 20th Century. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1966.
Keasbey, Doramay. “Weaver’s Primer: Lesson 2, Velvet.” Weaver’s Magazine, no. 8, 1990, pp. 20-27.
Kelly, Jacquie. “Custom Fabric for a Classic Cadillac.” Weaver’s Journal, no. 40, 1986.
King, Donald. “Les velours renaissance, sont-ils espagnols ou italiens?” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, no. 12, 1960, pp. 10–13.
Koslin, Désirée. “Weaver’s Revisited: In Quest of Velvet – Figured Warp Pile with Simple Means.” Weaver’s Magazine, no. 18, 1992, pp.42–45.
Latour, A. “Velvet.” CIBA Review, vol. 96, 1953, pp. 3438–66.
Lewis, Edward G. “Warp Boutonné.” Weaver’s Journal, vol. VII (2), no. 26, Clothilde Barrett, 1982, pp. 64–65, http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/periodicals/wj_26.pdf.
Loir, J. Neuvième Classe: Velours, Velours Frisé, Velours Coupé Au Fer, Velours Tissés En Double Pièces, Velours Pékin.
Peyot. Velvet Drafts and Montures Copia.
Pickett, Barbara Setsu. “Velvetweaving Today: A Worldwide Overview.” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 2010, http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/45/.
Price, Sandra. “Velvet and Pile: The Story of a Museum Collection.” Fiberarts Magazine, no. 18, 1992, pp. 30–34.
Proulx, Bibiane Aprile. “Corded Rep Weave and Velvet Rugs.” Shuttle, Spindle & Dyepot, vol. XVII (3), no. 67, Handweavers Guild of America, 1986, pp. 80–82.
Reath, Nancy Andrews. “Velvets of the Renaissance from Europe and Asia Minor.” Burlington Magazine, June 1927, pp. 298–304.
Riefstahl, Rudolf Meyer. “Velvets, Brocades and Embroideries in the Pennsylvania Museum and S.I.A.” Carpets and Other Textiles from Asia Minor, Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art, 1919, pp. 63–68.
Sonday, Milton. “Notes on the Renaissance Silk Velvet with Phoenix and Inscription ‘Nois Vive.’” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 70, CIETA, 1992, pp. 139–46.
Sonday, Milton. “A Group of Possibly Thirteenth-Century Velvets with Gold Disks in Offset Rows.” Textile Museum Journal, vol. 38/39, 2001, pp. 101–51.
Stack, Lotus. “Velvet Ikat.” The Weavers Journal, 1987.
Stack, Lotus. The Pile Thread: Carpets, Velvets, and Variations. The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 1991.
Sullivan, Donna. “Weaver’s Primer: Warp Pile”. Weaver’s Magazine, no. 6, 1989, pp. 14–19.
Sullivan, Donna. “Extra-Warp Woven-Pile.” Quarter Notes, vol. 1, no. 3, Handweavers Guild of America, 1985, p. 1–2.
Vial, Gabriel. “Un ruban de velours tissé ‘au cartons.’” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 34, CIETA, 1971, pp. 47–64.
Vial, Gabriel. Technical Analysis of 24400/118. Musée Historique des Tissus, 1964.
Vial, Gabriel. “Le Velours: À La Recherche de Ses Origines.” L’Estampille, no. 132, 1984.
Vial, Gabriel, and Daniël de Jonghe. “Analyse Technique d’un Échantillon Du Document No. MR 14029.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, vol. 57–58, 1983, pp. 39–49.
Vickerson, Laura-Keir, et al. Velvet: Laura Vickerson. Illington Kerr Gallery, Alberta College of Art & Design, 1996.
Wescher, H., and R. Zeller. “The Silk & Velvet Industries of Crefeld.” CIBA Review, vol. 83, CIBA, 1950, pp. 3002–27.
Xenakis, Alexis Yiorgos. “Barbara Setsu Pickett – In Quest of Velvet, Part I.” Weaver’s Magazine, vol. 9, 1990.
Xenakis, Alexis Yiorgos. “Barbara Setsu Pickett – In Quest of Velvet, Part II.” Weaver’s Magazine, vol. 9, 1990.
Zielinski-VelvetRugs.Pdf.
THEORY AND TECHNIQUE
Becker, John. Pattern and Loom. Rhodos International Publishing, 1987.
Berry, E. B. Textile Designing, Pure and Applied, 2nd ed. School of Textiles, University of North Carolina, 1964.
Bezon, Jean. Dictionnaire général des tissus anciens et modernes. Imprimerie et Lithographie de Th. Lépagnez, 1856-67.
Broudy, Eric. The Book of Looms: A History of the Handloom from Ancient Times to the Present. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1979.
Centre International d’Étude des Textiles Anciens. Notes on Handweaving Techniques in Plain and Figured Textiles. CIETA, 1987.
Collingwood, Peter. The Techniques of Tablet Weaving. Robin & Russ Handweavers, Inc., 1996.
Collingwood, Peter. Textile and Weaving Structures. B. T. Batsford, 1987.
Dress & Textile Specialists (DATS), and Victoria and Albert Museum. Identifying Textile Types and Weaves, 1750-1950. 2007.
el-Homossani, M. M. “Early Compound Weave Structures in Theory and Practice.” Ars Textrina, vol. 9, 1988, pp. 157–90.
Emery, Irene. The Primary Structures of Fabrics: An Illustrated Classification. The Textile Museum, 1980.
Emery, Irene, and Patricia Fiske. “Looms and Their Products.” Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles 1977, edited by Irene Emery and Patricia Fiske, The Textile Museum, 1977, pp. 242–55.
Fayard, Pierre. “Elaboration et fabrication des tissus chiné à la branche.” Bulletin de Liaison de CIETA, no. 57–58, CIETA, 1983, pp. 68–72; 76.
Forbes, Robert James. “Man the Maker, a History of Technology and Engineering.” The Life of Science Library, Schuman, 1950.
Forbes, Robert James. Studies in Ancient Technology. Vol. IV, E. J. Brill, 1956, pp. 192–245.
Forbes, Robert James, and Eduard Jan Dijksterhuis. A History of Science and Technology. Penguin Books, 1963.
Gilbert, Keith Reginald. “Textile Machinery.” Science Museum Illustrated Booklet, H. M. Stationery Office, 1971.
Guicherd, F. Cours de théorie de tissage. Éditions Seve, 1946.
Holyoke, Julie. Digital Jacquard Design. Bloomsbury Academic, 2013.
Hooper, Luther. Handloom Weaving: Plain and Ornamental. Taplinger, 1920.
Hullebroeck, Adolphe. Tissage: les armures fondamontales; les armures dérivées. Librairie Polytechnique Ch. Béranger, 1935.
Kobb, Katherine. “How the Drawloom Works.” Looms and Their Products: Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles 1977, edited by Irene Emery and Patricia Fiske, The Textile Museum, 1977, pp. 231–41.
Kolander, Cheryl. A Silk Worker’s Notebook. Interweave Press, 1985.
Labriffe, Charles, and Sylvain Labriffe. Manuel de tissage: tissus complexes. Vol. 2, Librairie J.-B. Baillière et fils, 1950.
Loir, J. Théorie du tissage des étoffes de soie [première partie]. Joannès Desvigne & Cie, successeurs, 1923.
Loir, J. Théorie du tissage des étoffes de soie, troisième partie. Joannès Desvigne & Cie, successeurs, 1926.
Nasr, Seyyed Hossein. Science and Civilization in Islam. Harvard University Press, 1968.
Nisbet, Harry. Grammar of Textile Design. D. B. Taraporevala, 1961.
Paulet, J. L’art du fabricant d’étoffes de soie. Vol. 1, 1773.
Posselt, E. A. Technology of Textile Design. Henry Carey Baird & Co., 1889.
Reath, Nancy Andrews. The Weaves of Hand-Loom Fabrics: A Classification with Historical Notes. Philadelphia Museum, 1927.
Reath, Nancy Andrews. “Weaves in Hand-Loom Fabrics.” Bulletin of the Pennsylvania Museum, Vol. 22, No. 112 (Apr., 1927), pp. 358-366.http://www.jstor.org/table/3794632. 2009.
Reed, Nellie Annie. The Book of Pattern Weaving. 1937.
Regensteiner, Else. The Art of Weaving. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1970.
Roth, Henry Ling. Studies in Primitive Looms. Ruth Bean Publishers, 1977 reprint.
Roth, Henry Ling. Ancient Egyptian and Greek Looms. Ruth Bean Publishers, 1978 reprint.
Sargentson, Carolyn. “Drawloom or Jacquard Technology in the Silk Industry c. 1730-1830.” Studies in Design and Technology, edited by Royal College of Art – Victoria and Albert Museum. Working papers / Royal College of Art, Futures Publications, 1988, pp. 169–206.
Schäppi, C. Cours de théorie pour le tissage. 1881. Manuscript.
Seiler-Baldinger, Annemarie. Classification of Textile Techniques. Calico Museum of Textiles: distributed by New Order Book Co., 1979.
Sonday, Milton. “What Can We Learn from a Fabric about the Loom on Which It Might Have Been Woven?” Looms and Their Products: Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles, edited by Irene Emery and Patricia Fiske, The Textile Museum, 1977, pp. 242–55.
Sutton, Ann. Falcott’s Weave Compendium. Deirdre McDonald Books; Bellow Publ. Co. Ltd., 1990.
Sutton, Ann, and Diane Sheehan. Ideas in Weaving. 1988.
Tod, Osma G., and Josephine Del Deo. Designing and Making Handwoven Rugs. Dover, 1957.
Usher, Abbott Payson. History of Mechanical Inventions. Revised, Harvard University Press, 1954.
Van de Weile, Belgium. https://www.vandewiele.be/en/activities/velvet-weaving.
Watson, William, and Z. J. Grosicki. Watson’s Advanced Textile Design: Compound Woven Structures. Edited by Z J Grosicki, Revised, Newnes-Butterworth, 1977.
TERMINOLOGY
American Fabrics Magazine. American Fabrics Encyclopedia of Textiles. American Fabrics Magazine.
American Fabrics Magazine. Condensed Dictionary of Silk Fabrics. American Fabrics Magazine, 1948.
Burnham, Dorothy K. Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology. Royal Ontario Museum, 1980.
Centre international d’étude des textiles anciens. Vocabulario tecnico italiano con la traduzione dei termini in francese, inglese, portoghese, spaniolo, svedese e tedesco. CIETA, 2019. https://cieta.fr/cieta-vocabulaire/.
Centre international d’étude des textiles anciens. Vokabular der Textilteckniken Deutsch mit den Entsprechungen im Englischen, Franzosischen,Italienischen, Portugiesischen, Spanischen, Schwedischen. CIETA, 2019. https://cieta.fr/cieta-vocabulaire/.
Cyrus-Zetterstrom, Ulla, and Guohua Xu. Textile Terminology: Chinese – English – French – Swedish. Centraltryckeriet Ake Svenson AB, 1995.
Dozy, Reinhart P. A. Dictionnaire détaillé des noms des vètements chez les Arabes. Jean Müller, 1843. Reprinted by Librairie du Liban. n.d.
du Cange, Domino. Glossarium Mediae et Infimae Latinitatis. 1887.
Wingate, Isabel B. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles. 6th ed., Fairchild Publications, 1979.
Textiles, General
Baker, Patricia. Islamic Textiles. British Museum Press, 1995.
Barber, Elizabeth J. W. Prehistoric Textiles. Princeton University Press, 1991.
Becker, John, translated by Donald B. Wagner. Pattern and Loom: A Practical Study of the Development of Weaving Techniques in China, Western Asia, and Europe. Rhodos, 1985.
Birrell, Verla. The Textile Arts. 1973.
Blumenau, Lili. “Weaves in Figured Silks.” Handweaver and Craftsman, vol. II, no. 2, 1951, pp. 25–27.
Bower, Helen. Textiles at Temple Newsam: The Roger Warner Collection. Leeds Art Collections Fund for Leeds Museums and Galleries, 2000.
Cleveland Museum of Art. Textiles in Daily Life in the Middle Ages. Cleveland Museum of Art, 1985.
Corbman, Bernard P. Textiles: Fiber to Fabric. McGraw-Hill Book Co.
Day, Florence E. “Silks of the Near East.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, Vol. 9, no. 4, 2013, pp. 108–17. https://www.metmuseum.org/pubs/bulletins/1/pdf/3257456.pdf.bannered.pdf.
Dimand, M. S. A Handbook of Muhammadan Art. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1958, pp. 249-325. https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015014256997&view=1up&seq=13.
Endrei, Walter. L’Évolution Des Techniques Du Filage et Du Tissage: Moyen Âge à La Révolution Industrielle. Mouton et Cie, 1978.
Felton, Anton. Jewish Carpets. Antique Collectors’ Club, 1997.
Feltwell, John. The Story of Silk. St. Martin’s Press, 1990.
Fleming, Ernst Richard. Textile Künste: Weberei, Stickerei, Spitze: Geschichte, Technik, Stilentwickelung. Verlag für Kunstwissenschaft, 1923.
Fleming, Ernst Richard. Encyclopedia of Textiles from Earliest Times to the Beginning of the 19th Century. E. Weyhe, 1927.
Flores, Jodi Reeves. Reconstructing the Ancient Greek Warp Weighted Loom.
Fraser-Lu, Sylvia. Handwoven Textiles of South East Asia. 1988.
Galloway, Francesca. Islamic Courtly Textiles and Trade Goods, 14th-19th Century. Francesca Galloway, 2001.
Gasthaus, Ruth, et al. Samte – Velvets – Velours. Das Textilmuseum Krefeld, 1979.
Geijer, Agnes. A History of Textile Art. Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Berne, 1979.
Gilfoy, Peggy Stoltz. Fabrics in Celebration from the Collection. Indianapolis Museum of Art, 1983.
Glazier, Richard. Historic Textile Fabrics, a Short History of the Tradition and Development of Pattern in Woven & Printed Stuffs. C. Scribner’s Sons, 1923.
Hollen, Norma & Jane Saddler. Textiles. 3rd ed., Macmillan, 1968.
Hunter, George Leland. Decorative Textiles: An Illustrated Book on Coverings for Furniture, Walls and Floors, Including Damasks, Brocades and Velvets, Tapestries, Laces, Embroideries, Chintzes, Cretonnes, Drapery and Furniture Trimmings, Wall Papers, Carpets and Rugs, Tooled A. J.P. Lippincott ; Dean-Hicks Co., 1918.
Jenkins, David T. The Cambridge History of Western Textiles. Cambridge University Press, 2003, p. 1191.
King, David & Monique. European Textiles in the Keir Collection: 400 BC – 1800 AD. Faber and Faber, 1990.
King, Mary Elizabeth. “Archaeological Textiles.” Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles 1974: Archaeological Textiles, edited by Patricia L Fiske, The Textile Museum, 1974, pp. 9–13.
Lafontaine-Dosogne, Jacqueline. “Textiles Islamiques: II. Proche-Orient et Méditerranée.” ISLAM (Guide Du Visiteur – Musée Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire), edited by Jacqueline Lafontaine-Dosogne, Musée Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, 1983.
Lafontaine-Dosogne, Jacqueline. “Textiles Islamiques: I. Iran et Asie Centrale.” ISLAM (Guide Du Visiteur – Musée Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire), edited by Jacqueline Lafontaine-Dosogne, Musée Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, 1981.
Landi, Sheila. The Textile Conservator’s Manual.
Larsen, Jack Lenor, & Jeanne Weeks. Fabrics for Interiors. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1975.
Lewis, Ethel. The Romance of Textiles. MacMillan Co., 1937.
Lombard, Maurice. Les textiles dans le monde musulman du VIIe Au XIie siècle. Mouton, 1978.
Lubell, Cecil. Textile Collections of the World: Volume 2, United Kingdom & Ireland.
Lubell, Cecil. Textile Collections of the World: Volume 1, USA & Canada.
Lubell, Cecil. Textile Collections of the World: Volume 3, France. 1977.
Mackie, Louise W. Symbols of Power. Luxury Textiles from Islamic Lands, 7th-21st Century. Cleveland Museum of Art, 2015.
Mackie, Louise W. “Islamic Textiles.” Arts of Asia, vol. 26, no. 1, 1996, pp. 82–93.
Markowsky, Barbara Beauchamp. Europäische Seidengewebe Des 13.-18. Jahrhunderts. Kunstgewerbemuseum der Stadt Köln, 1976.
Martiniani-Reber, Marielle. Lyon, Musée Historique Des Tissus: Soieries Sassanides, Coptes et Byzantines, Ve-XIe Siècles. Éditions de la Réunion des musées nationaux, 1986.
Mayer-Thurman, Christa Charlotte. Masterpieces of Western Textiles. Art Institute of Chicago, 1969.
Metropolitan Museum of Art. Textiles in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1995.
Mikosch, Elisabeth. “The Manufacture and Trade of Luxury Textiles in the Age of Mercantilism.” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 1990, http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/612.
Minneapolis Institute of Art. Pattern Threads: Ikat Traditions and Inspirations. Minneapolis Institute of Art, 1987.
Monnas, Lisa, & Heros Granger-Taylor. Ancient and Medieval Textiles. Pasold Research Fund.
Murphy, William S. The Textile Industries. Gresham Publishing, 1911.
Neumann, Reingard. “Die Sammlung Islamischer Textilien Im Kunstgewerbemuseum, Berlin-Köpenick.” Forschungen Und Berichte, vol. 19, 1979, pp. 67–75.
Nylander, Jane C. Fabrics for Historic Buildings. 1983.
Riboud, Krishna. In Quest of Themes and Skills – Asian Textiles. Marg Publications, 1989.
Rodier, Paul. The Romance of French Weaving. Tudor Publishing Co., 1936. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001983007.
Rogers, Clive (ed.). Early Islamic Textiles. Rogers & Podmore, 1983.
Rogers, Nora, and Martha Stanley. In Celebration of the Curious Mind. Interweave Press, 1983.
Schoeser, Mary. Silk. Yale University Press, 2007.
Scott, Philippa. The Book of Silk. Thames and Hudson Ltd., 1993.
Serjeant, R. B. Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest. Librarie du Liban, 1972.
Silk and Rayon Users Association. The Silk Book. W. S. Colwell Ltd., 1951.
Slavin, Richard E. Opulent Textiles: The Schumacher Collection. Crown, 1992.
Smith, Betty. Textiles in Perspective. 1982.
Spuhler, Friedrich, and G. &. C. W. Digby. Islamic Carpets and Textiles in the Keir Collection. Faber & Faber Ltd., 1978.
Thomas, Michel, Christine Mainguy, Sophie Pommier. Textile Art. Skira, 1985.
Thornton, Peter. Baroque and Rococo Silks. Faber and Faber, 1965.
Thurman, Christa C. Mayer, et al. Textiles in the Art Institute of Chicago. Art Institute of Chicago, 1992.
Varron, A. “The Early History of Silk.” CIBA Review, vol. 11, CIBA, 1938, pp. 350–82.
Victoria and Albert Museum. Silk Designs of the 18th Century. Victoria and Albert Museum, 1990.
Victoria and Albert Museum. 50 Masterpieces of Textiles. Victoria and Albert Museum.
Victoria and Albert Museum. The Arts of Islam: Hayward Gallery Exhibition. V & A Museum, 1986.
Vogel, J. Thomas. The Textile Industry: An Information Sourcebook. Oryx Press, 1989.
Volbach, W. Fritz. Early Decorative Textiles. Paul Hamlyn, 1969.
Weibel, Adèle Coulin. Two Thousand Years of Silk Weaving. E. Weyhe for L.A. County Museum, 1944.
Weibel, Adèle Coulin. Two Thousand Years of Textiles; the Figured Textiles of Europe and the Near East. Hacker Art Books, 1972.
Weigert, Roger-Armand. Textiles en Europe sous Louis XV. The New York Graphic Society, 1964.
Von Falke, Otto. Decorative Silks. William Helburn, 1922 (1936).
Wild, John Peter. “Some Early Silk Finds in Northwest Europe.” Textile Museum Journal, vol. 23, 1984, pp. 17–23.
Wilson, Kax. A History of Textiles. Westview Press, 1979.
Wingate, Isabel Barnum, and June F. Mohler. Textiles Fabrics and Their Selection. Prentice-Hall, 1984.
Zielinski, S. Encyclopedia of Weaving.
Zielinski, S. A. “Pile Weaves, Rugs & Tapestry.” Master Weaver Library, no. 14, Nilus Leclerc , 1983.
Commerce, Trade AND Travel
Adelson, Howard L. Medieval Commerce. Van Nostrand, 1962.
Anderson, Adam, and David MacPherson. Annals of Commerce, Manufactures,…Commercial Transactions of the British Empire & Other Countries from Earliest Accounts … to 1801. Vol. 3, Nichols and Son, 1805. https://doi.org/10.5962/bhl.title.21133.
Cummins, J. S. “Antonio de Morga and His Sucesos de Las Islas Filipinas.” Journal of Southeast Asian History, vol. 10, no. 3, 1969, pp. 560–81, http://www.jstor.org/stable/27651727.
Curtin, Philip D. Cross-Cultural Trade in World History. Cambridge University Press, 1984.
de Morga, Antonio, et al. History of the Philippine Islands (Sucesos de Las Islas Filipinas (1609)). Translated by James Alexander Robertson and Emma Helen Blair, EBook, Gutenberg Press, 1907, http://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/7001/pg7001.html.
Dunn, Ross E. The Adventures of Ibn Batuta, a Muslim Traveler of the Fourteenth Century. Revised, University of California Press, 2005.
Goldstein, Thomas. “Geography in 15th Century Florence.” Merchants and Scholars: Essays in the History of Exploration and Trade, edited by John Parker, University of Minnesota Press, 1965, pp. 11–32.
Hakluyt, Richard, & Ernest Rhys. The Voyages, Traffiques & Discoveries of Foreign Voyagers. Vol. 9, J M Dent and Sons Ltd., 1928.
Huan, Ma. Ying-Yai Sheng-Lan’ The Overall Survey of the Ocean’s Shores’ [1433]. Translated by J. V. G. Mills, The University Press, 1970.
Huan, Ma. Ma Huan’s Account of the Kingdom of Bengal. Royal Asiatic Society, 1895.
Hughes, J. Muriel. “Marco Polo and Medieval Silk.” Textile History: Journal of the Pasold Research Fund Ltd., vol. 6, 1975, pp. 119–31.
Ibn Battuta, and Samuel Lee. The Travels of Ibn Batuta, AD 1325-1354. Burt Franklin Research and Source Works Series, no. 817, B. Franklin, 1971, https://scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?as_q=&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_occt=any&as_sauthors=&as_publication=translation+in+ireland&as_ylo=&as_yhi=&btnG=&hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5#19.
Ibn, Battuta, and Mabdi Husain. The Rehla of Ibn Battuta. Edited by Mahdi Husain, Translated by Maudi Mahdi Husain, Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda (Sadhana Press), 1976, https://archive.org/details/TheRehlaOfIbnBattuta.
Jacoby, David. “Trade, Commodities and Shipping in the Medieval Mediterranean.” Variorum Collected Studies, Variorum, 1997.
Kedar, Benjamin Z. “Merchants in Crisis: Genoese & Venetian Men of Affairs & the 14th Century Depression.” Yale Series in Economic History, Yale University Press, 1976.
Lopez, Robert Sabatino. Commercial Revolution of the Middle Ages: 950-1350.
Lopez, Robert Sabatino. Medieval Trade in the Mediterranean World: Illustrative Documents. Columbia University Press, 1955.
Lopez, Robert Sabatino. “China Silk in Europe in the Yuan Period.” Journal of the American Oriental Society, vol. 72, no. 2, pp. 72–76.
MacPherson, David. Annals of Commerce, Vol. 2. 1805.
MacPherson, David. Annals of Commerce, Vol 3. 1805.
MacPherson, David. Annals of Commerce. 1805.
Minorsky, V. Hudūd Al ‘Ālam: “Regions of the World”, A Persian Geography, 372 A.H.—982 A.D. 2nd ed., vol. 7, Luzac and Company, 1970.
Pirenne, Henri, & Frank D. Halsey. Medieval Cities: Their Origins and the Revival of Trade. Princeton University Press, 1970.
Polo, Marco. Description of the World. [1298]. Translation & introduction by Sharon Kinoshita. Hackett Publishing Co. Inc., 2016.
Postan, Michael Moïssey, & Edward Miller. The Cambridge Economic History of Europe. Trade and Industry in the Middle Ages. 2nd ed., vol. II, Cambridge University Press, 1989.
Satow, Ernest M. The Voyage of Captain John Saris to Japan, 1613. Hakluyt Society, Bedford Press, 1900.
Subloff, Jeremy A.& C. C. Lamberg-Karlovsky (eds). Ancient Civilization and Trade. University of New Mexico Press, 1975.
Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste. The Six Voyages of Jean-Baptista Tavernier. Translated by J. P., Vol. 1, 1672.
Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste. The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier. 1670.
Yule, Henry. The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian: Concerning the Kingdoms and Marvels of the East. J. Murray, 1875.
Velvet on My Mind 
Leave a Reply